Margarita Araneta Forés, a name that resonates within the culinary world, passed away on February 11, 2025, leaving behind a legacy that transcended borders. Born on March 23, 1959, in Manila, Philippines, Forés was not just a chef; she was a pioneer who brought the flavors of Italy to the heart of Filipino cuisine.
Early Life: A Culinary Awakening
Growing up in a prominent family, Forés was the granddaughter of tycoon J. Amado Araneta, whose influence shaped her upbringing. Her early life in Manila took a dramatic turn when her family relocated to New York City during her teenage years. This move exposed her to a melting pot of cultures and cuisines, igniting her passion for food. A frequent visitor to an American-Italian restaurant, Forés developed an insatiable curiosity for Italian cooking, a passion that would later define her career.
After completing her education at Assumption College San Lorenzo, Forés returned to the Philippines, where she initially worked in the corporate sector. However, her heart yearned for the kitchen. A pivotal trip to Italy in 1986, where she received informal culinary training under esteemed chefs, solidified her decision to pursue a career in cooking.
Culinary Career: A Trailblazer
In 1997, Margarita Forés opened the first Cibo restaurant, which quickly became a beacon for lovers of traditional Italian cuisine. Her approach was unique: she sought to offer authentic Italian food at accessible prices, competing against American chains that dominated the market. Cibo’s success paved the way for several other establishments, including Lusso, Grace Park, and Alta, each reflecting her culinary artistry and innovative spirit.
Forés was not only celebrated for her restaurant ventures but also for her commitment to promoting Filipino ingredients and culinary traditions. Her recognition as Asia’s Best Female Chef in 2016 by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants was a testament to her impact on the global culinary scene. She used her platform to advocate for local products like Job’s tears, a gluten-free grain, showcasing the richness of Filipino agriculture.
In 2018, Forés was awarded the Order of the Star of Italy with the rank of Knight.
Personal Life: Overcoming Adversity
Though her professional life flourished, Forés faced her share of challenges. She battled cancer twice, including thyroid cancer, yet her resilience shone through. Her personal struggles deepened her appreciation for food, leading her to embrace organic ingredients and healthier cooking methods in her restaurants.
Forés was also a devoted mother to her son, Jorge Amado, who followed in her culinary footsteps. Together, they explored fusion cuisines, notably collaborating on a unique “Batchoy Ramen” dish that blended Filipino and Japanese flavors.
A Final Farewell
Tragically, Forés’s vibrant life was cut short at the age of 65. She was found deceased in her hotel room in Hong Kong, returning from a journey that included stops in Morocco and Madrid. The culinary world mourned her loss, recognizing not only her contributions to gastronomy but also her role as a cultural ambassador for the Philippines.
Margarita Forés’s journey from a young girl in Manila to an internationally recognized chef exemplifies the power of passion, resilience, and creativity. Her restaurants continue to inspire new generations of chefs and food lovers, ensuring that her legacy will endure long after her passing. As the culinary community remembers her, it is clear that Margarita Forés was not just a chef; she was a trailblazer whose flavors and spirit will forever resonate in kitchens around the world.
